Burton Holmes on the Trans-Siberian Railroad
Chapter 7: All Aboard!
Departures are announced by the ringing of a big bell
at the station. We soon learn not to be startled by the
first ring, for it means merely that it is time to begin
to think about beginning to commence to get ready to
prepare to go. By and by comes another clap or two,
just to remind us that the bell has rung before. Then
finally after we have stepped aboard at the polite
personal request of the numerous employees, a final,
ultimate, and authoritative clang
AT A STATION
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announces that something is really going to happen,
by and by. And sure enough, after a shrill blast from
the whistle of the station-master, a toot from the horn
of the switchman, and a squeak from the locomotive,
the Trans-Siberian flyer does move at last, and before
long we are once more "out of sight of land," encircled
by the wide horizon of limitless Siberia. There is
nothing in sight except distance, bisected by the
straight and seemingly endless line of the track.
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We seem to be far from everywhere. Yet this line of steel
marks a new route around the world; we never lose this
thought, a thought that shrinks this old world of
ours and makes of it a ball so small that we almost arrive
at a conception of it in its entirety. Despite the seeming
levelness of this vast plain of Siberia, we are conscious
in some way
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ALL ABOARD!
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A PARK-LIKE VISTA
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READING OUR PERMITS
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of the earth's rotundity. Thus we speed eastward for many
hundreds of miles across a Dakota-like expanse, which awaits
only the touch of agricultural industry to transform it into
an infinity of wheat. Again for many miles the line runs
over marshy ground, unpromising and even more repellent
than the deserts traversed by our own trans-continental
lines. It surprises us to learn that the Trans-Siberian
railway traverses
DURING A HALT
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no sandy plains; no regions that may be described as
deserts. We are still more surprised to find so many
miles of wooded country where a broad swath has been
cut through primeval forests of fir and birch. There is
but little variety in the landscapeone day all plain,
another day all marsh, another day nothing but endless
curvings in tree-bordered aisles, where, more than in
the open wilderness, the sense of vastness takes possession
of us. But as if to keep the settlers
EASTWARD HO!
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and the railway employees of the region from brooding
on this oppressive vastness, there are tiny things by
millions. The Siberian gnat is not to be ignored even in the big land
IN THE FOREST REGION
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SIBERIA!
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A CURVELESS LINE
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SECTION HANDS
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NOT AFRAID OF INSECTS
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AN EXTENSIVE WOODPILE
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Much work is being done along the line. Regrading has
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been already undertaken in many places, and the
entire line is to be rerailed with heavier steel,
for the existing rails have proved far too light for
speed or heavy traffic. In the meantime trains run
slowly and accidents are rare occurrences. Only one
marred our journeya fatal one, resulting in the
death of the conductor who fell from the
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THE CONDUCTOR
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A FATAL ACCIDENT
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platform while reaching out to take a written order
from a station-master. Fortunately, his death was
instantaneous and painless. They left him lying there
on the track to await the coming of the proper officials
upon whom devolved the duly of reporting the occurrence
to the administration at Moscow. We did not go to look
but went to work with a subscription-list for the benefit
of his wife and children.
Other pages about Holmes on the TSRR
| the previous chapter
| the route
| the contents page
| the next chapter
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