Burton Holmes on the Trans-Siberian Railroad
Chapter 10: The Lake Baikal Branch
ON THE BAIKAL BRANCH
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Only the baggage-cars were ferried over at the time of our crossing,
but it is now announced that the through train from Moscow is carried
intact across the lake and launched
A WARNING AGAINST SPEED
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upon the rails that lead it eastward to Manchuria. Mean-time
we transfer our baggage from sleeping-car compartments to the
cabins on the steamer "Baikal" amid the confusion of the hundred
or more emigrants who are our fellow-passengers.
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THE BAIKAL FERRY
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THE ICEBREAKER AT THE PIER
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THE BAIKAL PIER
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An hour later we are alone upon the cold, calm bosom of the
Baikal Sea. But why alone? Where are the forty first-class passengers
and officers and all the teeming population of the third-class cars?
They are all on a smaller steamer which will not start till after dark.
TRANSFERRING BAGGAGE
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Why? we inquire. No one can reply. Such is the custom; the big
boat without passengers crosses this inspiring lake by day, but,
with its load of weary human freight, the smaller steamer
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follows long after dark when the superb scenery is hidden from
all mortal eyes by the veil of night.
As we walk the spacious decks, we realize the importance of
carrying "Bou-maga." for without our letter from Prince Khilkoff,
we should have fared no better than the rest, whereas, many thanks
to the ministerial autograph letter, we have been spared
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ON THE BRIDGE
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the cold voyage by night upon the comfortless and crowded tender.
Moreover, we had first choice of compartments in the Trans-Baikal
train, awaiting us at Myssovaya, where,
CARS MADE FAST
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CROSSING LAKE BAIKAL ON THE ICE-BREAKER (LEFT)
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CROSSING LAKE BAIKAL ON THE ICE-BREAKER (RIGHT)
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barricaded in selfish comfort in our berths, we listened to the
tumult of our unhappy fellow-travelers when they attacked the
train in the desperation of fatigue at three o'clock next morning.
We could see no reason why all could not have
crossed by day in comfort had the railway management desired.
But there was not a murmur of complaint; the people knew that
they had been uncomfortable, but seemed to feel that they had
been merely unlucky, and never dreamed of blaming any one for
such a gross abuse of patience and disregard of common sense.
Next morning they looked worn and hungry, and at the earliest
opportunity descended like a ravening horde upon a small roadside
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MILITARY STUDENTS
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refreshment-market, where smiling Siberians presiding over
steaming samovars dispensed good tea and cheap but wholesome
food. At Verchneudinsk we find, side-tracked between two
freight-cars, the celebrated "church on wheels." This itinerant
Basilica is a complete Orthodox sanctuary, for it has even a
chime of bells at one end, golden crosses on the
A TINY TARANTASS
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roof, and an elaborate equipment on the inside for the
performance of the full Greek ritual.
Pending the completion of the permanent churches which
are building all along the line, this rolling place of
worship fills a void felt by the devout and the prayerful emigrants
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THE DECK OF THE S.S. 'BAIKAL'
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and railway employees. We frequently surprised guards
crossing themselves and murmuring prayers in the corridors
on the platforms of our train.
Other pages about Holmes on the TSRR
| the previous chapter
| the route
| the contents page
| the next chapter
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