Burton Holmes on the Trans-Siberian Railroad: Chapter 10

Burton Holmes on the Trans-Siberian Railroad

Chapter 10: The Lake Baikal Branch

ON THE BAIKAL BRANCH

Only the baggage-cars were ferried over at the time of our crossing, but it is now announced that the through train from Moscow is carried intact across the lake and launched

A WARNING AGAINST SPEED

upon the rails that lead it eastward to Manchuria. Mean-time we transfer our baggage from sleeping-car compartments to the cabins on the steamer "Baikal" amid the confusion of the hundred or more emigrants who are our fellow-passengers.

THE BAIKAL FERRY

THE ICEBREAKER AT THE PIER

THE BAIKAL PIER

An hour later we are alone upon the cold, calm bosom of the Baikal Sea. But why alone? Where are the forty first-class passengers and officers and all the teeming population of the third-class cars? They are all on a smaller steamer which will not start till after dark.

TRANSFERRING BAGGAGE

Why? we inquire. No one can reply. Such is the custom; the big boat without passengers crosses this inspiring lake by day, but, with its load of weary human freight, the smaller steamer

follows long after dark when the superb scenery is hidden from all mortal eyes by the veil of night. As we walk the spacious decks, we realize the importance of carrying "Bou-maga." for without our letter from Prince Khilkoff, we should have fared no better than the rest, whereas, many thanks to the ministerial autograph letter, we have been spared

ON THE BRIDGE

the cold voyage by night upon the comfortless and crowded tender. Moreover, we had first choice of compartments in the Trans-Baikal train, awaiting us at Myssovaya, where,

CARS MADE FAST

CROSSING LAKE BAIKAL ON THE ICE-BREAKER (LEFT)

CROSSING LAKE BAIKAL ON THE ICE-BREAKER (RIGHT)

barricaded in selfish comfort in our berths, we listened to the tumult of our unhappy fellow-travelers when they attacked the train in the desperation of fatigue at three o'clock next morning. We could see no reason why all could not have

crossed by day in comfort had the railway management desired. But there was not a murmur of complaint; the people knew that they had been uncomfortable, but seemed to feel that they had been merely unlucky, and never dreamed of blaming any one for such a gross abuse of patience and disregard of common sense. Next morning they looked worn and hungry, and at the earliest opportunity descended like a ravening horde upon a small roadside

MILITARY STUDENTS

refreshment-market, where smiling Siberians presiding over steaming samovars dispensed good tea and cheap but wholesome food. At Verchneudinsk we find, side-tracked between two freight-cars, the celebrated "church on wheels." This itinerant Basilica is a complete Orthodox sanctuary, for it has even a chime of bells at one end, golden crosses on the

A TINY TARANTASS

roof, and an elaborate equipment on the inside for the performance of the full Greek ritual.

Pending the completion of the permanent churches which are building all along the line, this rolling place of worship fills a void felt by the devout and the prayerful emigrants

THE DECK OF THE S.S. 'BAIKAL'

and railway employees. We frequently surprised guards crossing themselves and murmuring prayers in the corridors on the platforms of our train.

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